I just got back from 9 days in China.  I spent 3 days in Shanghai at a teachers conference followed by 5 1/2 days in Chengdu, Sichuan Province on holiday.  After having I lived in Chin for 2 years I have had no real desire to go back, unless it was to see spectacular places.  The China of just 6 years ago was a dirty, crowded, theft-ridden construction site.  And my visits since leaving in 2007 have just been in transit to other destinations.  But what a difference 6 years can make, especially in a place that’s changing as rapidly as China is.

What I saw of Shanghai (very little to be honest) and Chengdu was clean, with bike lanes (yes – bike lanes!), new buildings and was well laid out.  Old China is still very much in evidence.  Street food is readily available as is a street hair cut. Many things look and feel a bit worn and tired.  To quote T. “Everything is broken”, but that is part of a developing country and part of the experience.

Street Barber

But Chengdu was a wonderful surprise. Yes, It is a Chinese mega-city of 11 million people.  Like other Chinese mega-cities, it’s huge and seems to go on for miles.  It’s polluted and smoggy – we didn’t see any blue sky our entire time there, and I was told that was normal.  BUT, and there is a but, these things didn’t bother us and we had a great time.  We were a party of 4 which included A, T and her grandfather.  I’ll be honest some some of the factors that helped me to have a great time was the fantastic serviced apartment (Fraser Suites) I had booked and the fact that I was travelling with two Mandarin speakers.  Getting around and communicating just wasn’t a problem which makes for a smooth trip.

3 generations of Chinese family in Chengdu

All the sites we visited were well set out, nicely done and very clean.  Even the public bathrooms were clean and not stinky!  The parks we visited had slides and rides for kids.

T. making friends at the playground

Sitting outdoors drinking tea is positively encouraged both by the street and in parks. (a refreshing change from Hong Kong where outdoor eating and drinking seems to be frowned upon by the city planners).

Tea and mahjong in the park

The taxi drivers drove cautiously and stuck to using the meter.  People in general were friendly.  It helped that we were travelling with a small child and I could have made a fortune if I’d charged for photos that people had taken with her.  Tourist streets were tastefully done and pleasant to walk along.

Ji Lin Street

The temples were beautifully kept and were not just tourist destinations, but working temples which was nice to see as religion is not often on show in China.

Wuhou Temple

Wuhou temple

Friends who visited Xian at the same time reported similar experiences.  Pollution aside they had a great time.  Everywhere was clean, well done, well maintained with English more widely spoken than in Beijing, making for easier travel for the non-Chinese speakers among us.

The conclusion: China is becoming an easier and more pleasant to travel.  Maybe that sense of adventure will be lost for those who are more intrepid travellers, but for me who doesn’t speak the language and while I’m travelling with a toddler, I’m thrilled about the changes and the care China is clearly spending on its culture.  In short: I’m already planning my next visits!