Most definitely the trip of a lifetime.  Really one of the most closed countries in the whole world, but surprisingly easy to get to really.  We spent a week there in July 2012.  It was just me and A.  We left T. at home.  Not because it isn’t safe, but because it was a lot of on-the-bus, off-the-bus – very boring for a toddler. If you truly want to see what it’s like on ‘the other side’ go to North Korea.  You can only go as part of an organised tour and journalists of any kind are not allowed in.  You are aware that you are seeing what they want you to see, it’s a bit of a show, but then what tourist sight isn’t??  No, we didn’t see the labour camps – but then I don’t often visit prisons when I travel.

The people we met were incredibly friendly and answered all our questions.  They talked openly about the ‘arduous march’ (aka the famine of the 1990s).  There are pictures of the great leaders everywhere and the propaganda is wonderful!! The North Koreans are a very proud people.  They want to share their history, culture and country with you.

These was never a better example of really hearing ‘the other side of the the story’.  It was extremely interesting to see the conflicts and history from the North point of view.

When: August 2012.  We went at this time to catch the Mass Games which take place at about this time of year – the biggest performance of coordinated dance and gymnastics in the world.

With: A. and a group

How: You have to fly in and out of Beijing. We met our group in Beijing. The tour was all arranged through Koryo Tours who are experts in North Korea travel. They arrange all transport, hotels, guides, meals etc

Weather: Very hot in Pyongyang, but cooler in the north.

View DPRK (North Korea) in a larger map

Food:  We were very well fed. Breakfast was a sumptuous buffet including Korean, Chinese and Western food. Lunches and dinners were generally in hotels. More local. Rice, potatoes, fish, chicken.

Sights & Highlights: Big statues of the Kims, Grand People’s study hall, Juche Tower, birthplace of Kim Il Sung, Mount Paekdu & Lake Chon, the border & DMZ, the Arirang Mass Games.

Surprises: How comfortable the hotel, buses etc were. how well we were fed.  How openly our guides talked about their country.  Surprisingly expensive in terms of buying drinks and souvenires.

Notes:

Nearly anyone can go to North Korea.  The only exceptions are South Koreans and journalists of any kind (this includes photo-journalists).

You must go with a tour and you must stay with your tour and tour guide at all times.

You will be expected to be respectful and bow to images of the leaders.  If you don’t want to do this – don’t come as you will only get your guides into trouble.

IT’S SAFE!!  They don’t want foreigners to get hurt, they want foreigners to come away with a good impression.

When we went we had to give in our mobile phones at the airport (these were returned when we left). This has recently changed and you can keep your phone with you, but with such an unpredictable place, that might be reversed.

Tips: Bring Euros and quite a lot as all the extras are relatively expensive. Bring comfortable, relatively conservative clothes (not shorts). Bring photos of your country to share.  Bring a polaroid camera as then the North Koreans will also have photos to keep.  Bring an open mind. Listen politely (even if you know the truth to be otherwise). Smile and talk to people when you have the opportunity.

Links: Koryo Tours who are the leading travel experts in the region: http://www.koryogroup.com/

Trips and website run by a teacher in Hong Kong who takes trips every year (with Koryo).   http://visitdprk.weebly.com  This is who we went with as his tour included all the things we wanted to do.